From the Olifantsrus Campsite we drove first to Opuwo, for a little break and to prepare for the next leg of our journey; refueling, and buying food supplies. We spend the night camping at the luxury Opuwo Country Hotel campsites, and enjoyed a relaxed afternoon and some sundowners on their poolside; what a change from our “normal” days in the bush..!
The Himba live in the Kunene region of northwestern Namibia, where they continue to thrive in harsh conditions, depending on livestock such as cattle, goats, and sheep for their livelihood. The Himba people are semi-nomadic, and known for their striking appearance, rich cultural traditions, and deep connection to the land. Living in one of the harshest environments on earth, they have managed to maintain a way of life that dates back centuries, holding onto customs passed down through generations.
The Himba’s daily life revolves around their herds of cattle and goats. These animals are central to their economy, providing not only food and clothing but also serving as a form of currency and a symbol of social status. The Himba maintain a semi-nomadic lifestyle, moving with the seasons to find fresh pastures for their livestock. Their homes, called ovanda, are dome-shaped structures made of mud and thatch, which can be quickly assembled and disassembled as they move.
In Himba society, the family unit is key. Women are responsible for domestic tasks such as gathering firewood, milking animals, and preparing food, while men tend to the livestock and make important decisions for the community. The Himba practice a patriarchal system, but women hold considerable power in areas related to family and household.
Day 14 – Jul 24: Opuwo – Himba village in Kaokoland
I had visited the Himba before, but only for a relative short time and never spent a whole day and night with the Himba. This time I had arranged an overnight stay, through a fantastic guide, Tjingi Tjinginda, a Himba from a small community north of Opuwo. We wanted to really immerse ourselves in an authentic, non-touristic Himba community; and that’s exactly what Tjingi arranged for us!
One of the most distinctive features of Himba culture is their appearance. Women and children often wear little clothing, except for skirts made from goat skin or cloth. The women’s skin is covered in a mixture of red ochre and fat, giving them a reddish hue. This paste is not only decorative but also acts as a sunscreen in the harsh desert climate. Their hair is styled in intricate braids, and they wear jewelry made from metal, shells, and beads, signifying social status and personal milestones.
We brought some basic food supplies as gifts: bags of corn flower, cooking oil, some sugar, etc. We then had a little tour through the family homestead, which consisted of a few small mud huts, a fenced area for the cows, a small communal hut and some storage huts. In the afternoon we spend a lot of time with the kids, playing, and treating them to some “western” treats.
Day 15 – Jul 25: Himba tribal village – Deep into Kaokoland…
The Himba dedicate the mornings to their cattle; after milking the cows the kids bring the herds of cows and goat to suitable grazing grounds, to only return in the afternoon. This is still wild territory, and in the evening the Himba had plenty of stories to tell about encounters with lions, and particularly the more feared leopards who often stalked the Himba’s livestock for a free meal. This is why at night they keep the cattle inside their fenced homestead.
It was getting late in the morning and time for the Himba women to go into the fields, and for us to pack our stuff and say goodbye to this beautiful and so authentic Himba family. I promised to come back, for an even longer stay! And I do like to keep my promises…
We drove back to Opuwo, where we dropped our guide Tjingi at his home. We then did some last minute shopping and off we went, northbound, into some of Namibia’s most remote corners and genuine wilderness area: Kaokoland.